Beidaihe Wetlands

A visit to Beidaihe was definitely not on the cards when we set off last weekend. Our actual destination was the Shanhaiguan Pass, located at Qinhuangdou, the north eastern coastal shore of Beijing at Hebei Province.

Shanhaiguan Pass literally meaning “Mountain and Sea Pass” is the first pass for the Great Wall of China on the eastern front, where the Wall ends 20 meters into the sea. (More of that in the next post).

We stumbled upon Beidaihe on our way looking for a place to stay after visiting Shanhaiguan. Most of the hotels at Qinhuangdao were really expensive and there is only one international chain hotel, namely the Holiday Inn and a simple deluxe twin bed room was quoted at RMB950, which is even more expensive than that located in Beijing.

Calls made by our driver cum tour guide cum friend, found the newly opened 5 star Sheraton Hotel and apartments (by the same developer) at Beidaihe. We took a three room apartment which was just opened 2 months ago for only RMB768 (RM380).

Beidaihe, is a coastal summer resort located approximately 3 hours drive from Beijing. This is apparently where most of the locals, especially government officials and the well-to-do Chinese go for their summer and beach vacation to relax. There were plenty of local hotels and the town was brightly lighted up with bulbs of every colour possible. Judging from the Russian words that were put up everywhere as well as a fair amount of Russian tourists also suggest that this is a rather popular tourist destination for the Russians.

The beach which is the main reason for most that were there is not exactly what we expect. Having seen better beaches back home in Malaysia, not to mention the exotic ones located at Bintan Island or Maldives, we find the beaches rather dirty, rough yellow sand with murky waters. Resigned to the fact that there is nothing much to see, we had our breakfast and decided to drive around town for one last time, before we go back to our hotel, packing our bags heading back to Beijing.

 And then, there she was, the vast wetlands of Beidaihe, stretching out to the Bohai Sea. And there were group of photographers along the stretch with their tripods and umbrellas focussing on something out there. I had to stop to see. I told our driver to drop me there and come back to pick me up later. I hurriedly got down, got my gear and made my way towards the sight of the wetlands. As I got closer, I realised the subjects that got the attention of all these photographers….BIRDS of various species.

These are bird watchers and nature photographers and most seemed rather serious in their passion if not professionals. Expensive cameras mounted on sturdy and huge tripods and lens longer than my arm and thicker than my thigh, lens and cameras that I can only dream about.

The longest range camera I had was only my Nikkor 18-105mm kit lens and I have to make do, since bird photography has never been my forte or my interest. I was there for the scenery and my Sigma 11-20mm f3.5 wide angle and my kit lens would be just perfect for those.

Beidaihe is supposed to have nice and clear skies with a mild climate all year round. Unfortunately, that was certainly not the case when I was there. The skies were overcast and gloomy, blanketed by a thick layer of smog that covered the clear blue skies and made everything in the distance blurry.

As a photographer for landscape, this could not have been a worst case scenario. I don’t mind overcast and gloomy skies with dramatic rain clouds brewing but a dull grey sky has really nothing much to offer.

Looking at the wetland, I can only imagine how much more mesmerizing and amazing she would have been if only I catch her on a bright sunny day, with blue skies and cloud formation clearly reflected on the still waters, intermittently disturbed by flocks of white cranes and birds that I don’t even recognise, landing, basking and picking up small fishes (I presumed) and taking off in beautiful formation.

But there are still plenty to focus on despite the setbacks.

I found out later that Beidaihe is THE PLACE in CHINA and also one of the four havens for bird watchers in the world because of variety and numbers of migratory birds that come by here at different times of the year. Honestly, I have never seen large flocks of wild white cranes anywhere else, so free and uninhibited.

Dachaoping where I happened to chance upon is reputed to be the best spot in Beidaihe and rightly so, judging from the beauty of the landscape and the sheer number of birds there. 

It is easy to get totally lost in the vast piece of breathtaking landscape and sometimes forget, what some other professional photographers termed as `supporting cast’. I closed my eyes for a moment and when I reopened them, I saw other parts of this beautiful place, like the two below, a small patch of tiny white flowers `screaming’ as they were, wanting recognition among the long orange and red weeds  ……

and the lines of very green shady trees next to the wetlands.

This is not exactly a place where most foreign visitors visiting Beijing would end up due to her location and neither would I recommend you to come all the way here just for the wetlands, especially if you are not a bird enthusiast and you have very few days to spent in Beijing. But I am glad that I have stumbled upon a gem and an opportunity to have pictures to remember her by.

Hangzhou Flying Mountain

A mountain that flew all the way from India to China? Hard to believe?

So says the legend. Feilai Feng (飞来峰) located at the Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺) in Hangzhou, near to the West Lake is a huge limestone mountain measuring 209 meters (700 feet) tall. Legend has it that she flew all the way from India and ended up here in Hangzhou. This rock formation is definitely unique considering that this is the only limestone rock formation among the common sandstone mountains in that area. 

It was said that an ancient monk by the name of Hui Lin, who had just came back from India saw this rock formation 1600 years ago and was convinced that this rock, similar to what he had saw in India had flew all the way and made her home in Hangzhou, as a demonstration of the great omnipotence of the Buddhist law.  

You will find a total of 345 scruptures both big and small carved out on the face of this rock, some dating as far back as 951AD. There is also another legend that surrounds the existence of so many Buddha statues carved on the rock. It was sad that before the rock finally landed on her current location, she has been flying all over the land, crushing and destroying anything in her path. The statues were carved to suppress her to her current position. 

 

Among the many interesting carvings found here, one that immediately stands out is the carving of the Laughing Buddha sitting on the cliff by a stream with his belly exposed. It was said that his rather `big’ belly is where he kept all the world’s worries. 

In one of the core caves within this rock formation, there is huge carving of bodhisattva Guanyin. There is a crack on the wall of the caves that reaches all the way to the ceiling and it is said that if one stands at the exact place, you could see a tiny light shining through like a thread all the way up. Hence this cave is known as “One Thread of Heaven.” (一线天)

Located just outside the Feilai Feng is a huge pagoda said to contain the remains of Hui Lin, the great monk who discovered Feilai Feng.

Feilai Feng is located within the temple grounds of Lingyin. The crowd at Feilai Feng can be taunting especially on weekends or public holidays but as one wanders through the temple grounds, which is currently one of the largest and wealthiest Buddish monesteries in China, the crowd thins and you begin to feel a deep sense of peace, the type that is not only external but spiritual to a certain extend, one that touches your soul. 

For whatever reasons, your soul quiets down and your worldly worries tend to slip away as you climb up the steps to reach the top of the monestary. (I get goosebumps even as I write this article, just recalling the calmness I felt even though the visit was more than 6 months ago). 

Maybe it has to do with the name of the place to begin with. Lingyin Temple is also known as the Temple of the Soul’s Retreat and rightly so, because that would be exact innner peace and tranquility that one’s soul tend to feel as your eyes feast on her many calm, serene yet mesmerizing sights. 

I am not a Buddist yet I left this place, feeling refreshed somewhat and a sense of peace that I have not enjoyed for a long while. 
 

Maybe, just maybe, my soul has been truly refreshed from this small but short retreat that I encountered at Lingyin.

No amount of words can properly described that feel. You just got to be there to experience it.

The Charm of West Lake

Mentioned Hangzhou and you will be thinking and talking about WEST LAKE (西湖). The beauty and charm of WEST LAKE is legendary. Hence, it is hardly surprising that we made it a point to visit Hangzhou during our last trip to Shanghai.

Hangzhou is approximately 2 hours drive away from Shanghai. We left Shanghai early in the morning before the early morning office rush hour and the drive from Shanghai to Hangzhou was pleasant. But little did I expect to take another hour to reach West Lake after we arrived at Hangzhou. The traffic congestion getting into West Lake was horrific and it was quite a turn off for me. The place was so crowded and almost every corner you turned, there are people, tourists, tour buses and cars.

If you are thinking that you would experience any form of serenity that a lake so beautiful and charming would offer, you would be seriously disappointed. Everything here was a rush. Even a stroll around the lake would not end up a stroll, as you have to constantly dodged tourists cycling past, or being pushed or bumped into or avoid bumping into some groups of local tourists who would without warning just stopped dead in their tracks to take pictures. It was far from what I would expect.

 

The gloomy skies and slight drizzle when we arrived was not helping either and any attempt to take pictures turned out rather disappointing and dull.

Having said that, I must admit that the West Lake is indeed a charming and romantic place, if one discounts the noise and the crowd. The vast lake surrounded by mountains on three sides in the background and islands with pagodas in between, is definitely a wonderful sight to behold. I can only imagine how much more mesmerizing she can be, on a clear sunny day where the lake is blue with clear reflections of skies and trees or on a bright moon lit night.

The beauty of the West Lake has become the blueprint and influence of so many other similar lake gardens around the world. West Lake was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2011. The West Lake scenic area covers approximately 60 square kilometers and the lake itself covers 5.6 square kilometers. The average depth of the lake is reported to be only 7.4 feet.

Taking a ride in one of the row boats offered is definitely one of the best ways to appreciate the lake and most of her scenic sites if you have limited time. However, the cost of such a ride is pricey, considering that this is one of the most visited places in China.

 

One day is definitely not enough to truly appreciate the real beauty of West Lake. Unfortunately, we did not have the time needed. Given an opportunity, I would like to revisit this place, stayed at a hotel within walking distance to the lake and stay back late into the night when the crowd is long gone, to sit by her shores under the moonlight, watching the reflections of the moon and the lights from the LeiFeng Pagoda. Maybe then, I would truly experience the romance and the true charm and beauty that the old scholars had shared in their songs and poets.

Shanghai Bund New and Old

If and when you are visiting Shanghai, I am pretty sure the name of this one place would be definitely comes up top. Nobody and no tour agency would give this place a miss and that place is the famous BUND!

I had to make two separate trips to the Bund when I was in Shanghai. The first night I was there, we went too late and all the glittering lights that made the Bund what she is was already switched off around 9:30 p.m. There were literally nothing to see, only dark buildings and even darker side opposite the Huangpu River where the Oriental Pearl TV Tower and the sky scrappers were.

Hence, on the day that we returned from Hangzhou, we made it a point to visit the Bund immediately before even going back to the hotel, to grab a cruise down the Huangpu River and savor the beauty and charm of this magnificent landscape at night, basking in all her glittering lights.

Also known as Zhongshan Dong Li Lu (East Zhongshan First Road), she has been an iconic street in Shanghai for hundred of years. Stretching approximately 1500 meters, there are 26 buildings of different and unique design and architecture that defines the Bund. This stretch fronting the Huangpu River, looking across the Pudong Financial District was once the most romantic corner in Shanghai. It still would be if NOT for the hundreds if not thousands of tourists there every night, talking or shouting on top of the voice and having their pictures taken.

Taking a river cruise down the Huangpu River is a rather interesting experience. As you cruise down this very important river in Shanghai, you would clearly see the difference between the west and the east side of the river. On the west side is the Bund, with her 26 signature buildings of different design, architectural, bearing resemblance from different eras such as Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque, Classicism and the Renaissance, a time of the glorious past. If you close you eyes, and if your imagination allows you, you can even bring yourself, traveling back in time to the golden era of Shanghai yesteryear and imagine how romantic that scene would be.

On the east side, however, is the complete opposite. Instead of old colonial style buildings, are the tall sky scrappers with colourful neon lights and advertisements displays, constantly changing hue and colour. Here lie the three tallest buildings in Shanghai and among the tallest in China and the world. The first to catch your attention will of course be the colourful and unique iconic Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Then, there is the Jin Mao Tower, an 88 floors tiered pagoda shape building which until recently was the 5^th tallest building in the world. She is now of course dwarfed by the even taller building and currently the tallest building (soon to be surpassed), the Shanghai World Financial Centre, standing at 492 meters with 101 floors, making her the third tallest building in the world.

The landscape here is going to change even further with the soon to be completed Shanghai Tower with a height of 632 meters, taking over as the tallest building in Shanghai and China and the second in the world.

 

We were told an interesting story surrounding the constructions of the Shanghai World Financial Centre and the Shanghai Tower. I am uncertain as to how true the story was but it is still interesting nevertheless and holds true to the pride of the mighty Chinese.

Story has it that the Shanghai World Financial Centre was designed and built by the Japanese. The current square opening right at the top of the building, which made this building’s design unique, was initially a circle but the idea was strongly objected upon by the Chinese because it represents a symbol of the Japan’s rising sun. Hence, it was changed to her present state.

But having the tallest building built by the Japanese is not exactly something that the Chinese are proud of and some even said that the very sharp angles and edges of the building from far looks similar to a samurai sword. Hence, the Chinese then designed and commenced building an even taller structure next to her, namely the current Shanghai Tower, cylinder in design, looking more like a sword sheath to hold her `within’.

 

Regardless whether the story is true or otherwise, the Bund and the Pudong Financial District are still a must visit places when you do drop by Shanghai. In fact, if you have the time, I might even suggest that you see her once during the day and then again in all her splendour at night.

And if you are photographer, don’t forget to bring your tripod and you will be rewarded with shots that you would be happy to go home with.

Zhujiajiao Ancient Water Town

When one visits Shanghai, several top tourist attractions are a must. A walk down the Bund, taking a river cruise down Huangpu River in the evening to enjoy the glittering Bund on one side and the Shanghai Financial district with a good view of the Pearl Tower on the other, not forgetting having a picture taken with the Pearl Tower and shopping at the famous Nanjing Street.

Not many itineraries would include a visit to this 1700 years old ancient water town located approximately an hour ride from Shanghai and reportedly one of the four best preserved ancient water town in Shanghai.

Zhujiajiao (朱家角) or simply known as the Zhu Family Settlement with a population of approximately 60,000 dates back all the way to the Yuan Dynasty. She is also known as the `Pearl Stream’ because this little town will glimmer at night among the landscapes of lakes, rivers and mountains.

When I did some research before my trip to Shanghai, I was not particularly impressed with all the common places that most tour agencies will take me and I was looking for something more Chinese. The pictures of Zhujiajiao caught my attention with her canals, rivers, sleepy willow trees and old ancient cottages. Hence, I gave specific instructions and made specific request that I wanted to visit Zhujiajiao and slot that into our itinerary somehow. Fortunately, our driver was accommodating enough and willingly slot in a full day visit to this place on the last day at Shanghai before we made our way to the airport.

On arrival, my first impression of this place was rather disappointing. It was a Sunday and just like any other tourist attractions in China, especially this particular one which are rather popular with local tourists, this place was absolutely packed to the brim. There were so many people pushing along the narrow streets and jostling to get their pictures taken. 

My first thoughts were to turn back and go home. But having travelled more than an hour from Shanghai, there is no turning back. Braving the crowd, we made our way carefully and rather `forcefully’ pushing back the crowd who constantly walk right into your face, which happens so often in China with the local tourist, to the nearest restaurant to have our lunch, to gather our composure, to take a breather, to get over the initial shock and to plan the next course of action.

The lunch break did help. We ordered some local dishes which turned up rather delicious though a little pricey (which is expected of a place this crowded and popular). With our stomach filled and I had my local beer, we were ready to do battle on the narrow streets and alleys, crowded with tourist and locals peddling their souvenirs.

Most of the cottages have been turned into either cafes, restaurants, tea houses, snack shops or souvenir shops, managed by the locals. I must say that this place is overly commercialised and very touristy. If we had not stay longer till the evening when most of the crowd left, I would not rank this place as a place that I would enjoy but enjoy I did as the day drew to a close.

One of the best way to avoid the crowd and to get an introduction of the place and some of orientation as to where to go for a walk would be to take a boat ride. They offered several routes with different prices. We took the cheapest which amounted to RMB30 per person covering 4 destinations, since there were 6 of us and the journey lasted approximately 20 minutes. It was short but was also the most enjoyable 20 minutes as our boat went into narrow canals, lined by sleepy willow trees with their leaves hanging over the water and ancient old cottages lining both side of the canal. I began to enjoy and appreciate the true beauty of this quaint ancient water town.

Towards the evening, as the sun sets and her rays dimmed, and as the lights of the many cottages came on and the crowd leaves, as the temperature cooled down, the smell of spring was refreshing.

This is the best moment to savour the true beauty and charm of this 1700 years old water town. Walking down the now almost deserted alleys, a sense of serenity and tranquillity descended upon place, which hours ago was bustling with hundreds if not thousands of people, squeezing among themselves through these same streets and alleys.

Soon, it was time for us to leave this place to catch our flight back to Beijing but I leave with a sense of satisfaction that Zhujiajiao has not disappointed me. Although this place, like some many other places in China, has been overly commercialised, I still had that opportunity, for a short moment in time, to experience and to see her in her natural serenity and charm.

Hence, a word of advice if you are planning a visit, it might make good sense to either stay longer and wait for the crowd to leave or simply visit her later in the day, to truly enjoy what Zhujiajiao has to offer.

Jingshanling The Section To See

Nine out of ten visitors to the Great Wall of China would have either visited the section at Badaling or Mutianyu. Why? Because, these are the two most promoted sections both by the tourism board as well as tour agencies in China.

I am not saying that these two sections are not Great Wall but I am a firm believer that these two sections do not portray the Great Wall as she truly was and is. Both Badaling and Mutianyu has gone through very thorough and massive reconstruction over the years and heavily promoted and hence commercialised. Given any time of the year, the walls are crowded with tourists, both local and foreigners besides souvenirs peddlers trying to make a quick sale and hefty profit.

Trying to take a picture here without people constantly getting into your frame requires you to walk a great distance along the wall to escape the crowd and even so, one still could not get that feel of an authentic wall with scars, so to speak of what she has gone through hundred of years, battled by the harsh summers, springs, autumns and bitter winters.

The conditions of the reconstructed sections at Badaling and Mutianyu are so immaculate that it seemed unreal. I have been to Mutianyu twice but never to Badaling and I don’t think I will want to make a trip there after having been to one of the best section of the Wall at JINGSHANLING!

The Great Wall of which construction started over 2000 years ago stretches 6,700 km or 4,160 miles that starts from Shanhaiguan in the east to as far as Lop Nur in the west. As the wall snakes over the vastly different terrains on this big continent, along sharp ridges and deep valleys, lush green forest or dry deserts, the many sections of the wall presents very different views and perspectives. Today, some sections have completely crumbled while some have been overgrown with thick undergrowth. There are sections which have been submerged in lakes and flooded valleys while at Shanhaiguan, the wall juts and finally ends in the sea.

But if you look at the many beautiful and amazing pictures of the Great Wall, there is a great possibility that that section is the section near Jingshanling and Simatai, two sections of the wall with both restored walls as well as the `wild’ walls which have been left untouched since.

I accidentally stumbled upon the Jingshanling section during last year winter when I could not get to the Wuling Mountains as originally intended. My driver suggested that I visit Jingshanling instead since we are already near the vicinity. I have absolutely no regrets.

Jingshanling is located approximately 140 km northeast of Beijing and connects Simatai on the east and Gubeikou in the west, making it one of the most interesting and most popular hiking trails.

My first visit during winter was everything I had asked and hoped for to photograph the Great Wall. The Great Wall was virtually deserted and there were still snow covering the wall and the barren slopes. Jingshanling was also interesting because one could see the wall `snaking’ along the ridges as far as the eyes could see.

I was there again in April this year as winter passed by and spring arrived. I had the opportunity to venture further among the unreconstructed portion of the wall. Again, towards the evening, the wall was pretty deserted and I had the opportunity to look at her from different angles and experiencing her in her natural non restored state and that experience was simply amazing and priceless. As the evening set in, a deep sense of serenity descended upon the wall. Closing my eyes for a moment, I took a deep breath. When I reopened my eyes, I felt as if I have been transported back in time, several hundred of years back. I stood there, scanning the hills, watching the wall snakes on top of the sharp ridges and down deep valleys. There was this silence that was somewhat peaceful and comforting. As far as my eyes could see, I saw the great wall and the silhouette of her watch towers in the distance.

This is the Great Wall experience that I was yearning for and I found it at Jingshanling. I have a dream and that is to hike from Gubeikou, through Jingshanling to Simatai, reputed to be the best stretch to experience the wall in all her natural splendor and to sleep on one of her watch towers beneath the stars and that I hope to achieve soon before I leave Beijing.

So, if you are ever thinking of visiting the Great Wall, instead of just following the recommendation of your tour agency to drop by Badaling where you would be totally disappointed, jostling with hundreds if not thousands of tourists or even Mutianyu, which is slightly better, give the section of Jingshanling a serious consideration. I promised you that she will leave a lasting impression of a lifetime.

Grassland that is NOT

The vast grasslands of Mongolia has always been something intriguing to me and has remained one of the several places that I wanted to visit while I am here in China, the other being able to hike some parts of the `wild’ Great Wall of China and to spent a night, camping and enjoying the stars.

But the nearest grassland is at least 5 to 6 hours away from Beijing and the trip had to be carefully planned, especially when you are travelling with two little children. So, when someone told us that there is a vast grassland called the Kangxi Grassland only about an hour away from Beijing, we were hopeful that at least we could do something over the weekend, and the kids or me get to ride some horses, running wild on the vast rolling grassland and under some stunning clouds formation with blue skies.

My expectations were high. With my camera gear all cleaned up and filters ready, I was even expecting to stay till evening, hoping to get some stunning sunset shots. We engaged a driver and set off on a lazy Sunday. The journey was uneventful and the highway choked with traffic since the particular place is located relatively near to the Badaling Great Wall, the most crowded section of the Great Wall where most overseas and local tourists go on weekends.

The signboards were relatively clear pointing the direction of the Kangxi Grassland. After being on the road for approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes, we finally arrived. What greeted us was a small ticketing office with no car park in sight. I was told that the car park is inside the entrance and entrance fee is RMB30 each. Not exactly expensive, I thought considering that we have paid much higher entrance fees for other locations in China before.

Tickets were issued and we drove towards the entrance, where there was a booth to collect our tickets. To our surprise, the guys at the entrance took our tickets and did not even bother to give us back the stub. When our driver asked for it, he told us that that was it. (The auditor part of me tells me that I smell a rat somewhere but then again, I could not care less. All I wanted was the grassland).

The moment we entered the entrance, there was an empty piece of land, supposedly the car park and a building with stadium like seats.

We were immediately approached by a man who quickly ushered us to this building, telling us that that is the place to get horses to go into the grassland. Since, my mother in law and two children came along, we were advised that we need to get a horse cart which will cost us RMB200 for one hour without the HORSES! Two horses for one hour would cost us a further RMB200 and we were still expected to tip the driver after the trip. All I could smell then was horse shit and horse pee. Well, since cars can’t go in (or so we were told initially) and there is no way we could walk into a 5,200 acres of grasslands, we agreed with the horse cart but were told that we have to wait at least 30 minutes for the next cart to come back.

Just as we were waiting, a bald man that I have noticed sitting at one corner since we walked in, drinking his Yanjing beer, stood up and came over and told me that he could let us drive our car in for RMB200. That was indeed a tempting offer considering that we would have to pay RMB400 an hour besides tips to the driver for the horse cart. We agreed and he led us to a dirt road blocked by some man made metal barrier. We paid him the RMB200 and he lifted the barrier to allow us to drive through. Well, I thought that I am on my way to see the vast rolling grasslands! Yipppeeee!

What I saw was disappointing to say the least. What greeted me was a huge and vast piece of flat land, overgrown with weeds and shrubs. I got down to take some pictures and every which way I turned, I could see horse shit. It was far from what I have expected. The day was hot with temperature touching 34 degrees. On the internet, I saw pictures of herds of sheep and rolling hills. Where have they gone to?

Since we have paid the RMB200, we drove on and finally the road ended after 15 minutes drive by a pond or a lake so they claimed. There is a patch of land planted with sun flowers and some old row boats where one could hire to row out (chargeable of course). By this time, I was too hot and too disappointed to bother.

We got down to grab some pictures and headed back.

Is the type of grasslands that I would encounter in Mongolia? I don’t know but I still intend to find out. But for now, I would strongly advise anyone thinking of spending a day here, riding horses especially with kids to give this place a miss.

Kangxi grasslands were reported to be as vast as 5,260 acres and are supposed to be teaming with sheep and cattle with mild temperatures even in summer. What I have experienced was totally the opposite. Maybe I have not ventured deep enough from the main road to see the wild side of her but whatever I saw from the outside including the experience from the people manning this facility does not impress me.

This is definitely a grassland that is NOT! And oh yes…I also found out later that you could drive your car in for as little as RMB100!